After 17+ hours of flying and completely skipping the 25th of January we’ve finally arrived in New Zealand! We left those wigs at home which made passing through security a bit easier, so we’ll have to manage to have fun without them. After a short bus ride, we spent a bunch of time walking around Auckland yesterday to rid our legs of deep vein thrombosis and to see where we might be able to buy a car. We stayed at a nice hostel downtown last night, complete with bar on the ground floor. The car search continued this morning and I think we may have found what we are looking for. Stay tuned for more…
Archive for January, 2009
We’re Here!
Monday, January 26th, 2009Here We Go!
Sunday, January 25th, 2009Woohoo, the day has finally arrived for our trip to New Zealand! It’s hard to believe that it’s been over two months since we left New Hampshire and that the first leg of our journey is just about over. We’re on the train right now heading up the California coast (we can watch people surfing from the train!) to our final destination in the US–LAX. As we get ready to head to New Zealand we’re both feeling incredibly lucky to be doing this and thankful for all the beautiful places we’ve already seen and great people that we’ve met and stayed with along the way. And, after Tuesday’s historic inauguration, it’s nice to leave home knowing that things are in good hands!
The first bit of exciting news that we already got from NZ is that the first farm we’ll be visiting–an avocado farm and organic beer brewery–is having a beer festival while we’re there. The folks we’ll be working for asked if we could stick around to help out at the festival, which, of course, didn’t take any arm twisting! The next time you hear from us we’ll be in NZ, and we can’t wait to hear more from all of you. It’s great to get updates from home and hear how everyone is doing–please keep the comments, emails, skype calls, etc. going!
Life in San Diego
Saturday, January 24th, 2009California Bound
Thursday, January 22nd, 2009After our stay in Phoenix we took off for Prescott with hopes of meeting up with our friend Ellery. We ended up having only a short afternoon visit with her, but it was so great to see a friend from home out on the road. Ellery gave us the quick tour of Prescott College, we enjoyed a few beers at the pub, and swapped road trip stories and “must see” places for our return trips. There was a little bit of snow in the mountains of Prescott, so we decided to drive a bit further south to camp for the night before heading to California.
Our next stop was Joshua Tree National Park–a place we had been to a few years ago when Joanie was working as a Bald Eagle Observer for Arizona Game and Fish. It was nice to see a somewhat familiar place and reminisce about the flat tire and flat spare that we got the last time we were here. Luckily, we didn’t need to deal with that again, and we headed out to parts of the park that we hadn’t seen before. Most of the campgrounds are neatly tucked behind and among the granite rock formations which provided hours of entertainment. Scrambling, climbing, and jumping around the rocks is always good fun–especially when you’ve got the place to yourself. The perfect weather continued, we explored the northwest corner of the park, and then started to realize that the first leg of our trip was almost coming to a close. We’ve been having so much fun driving across the country, seeing new places and eating incredible food, that we almost forgot that we were going to be flying to New Zealand in a week! And, best of all, we had another visit with friends to look forward to–along with the sun and surf of San Diego. Ahh, the ocean…at last.
We’ve been staying with our friends Ryan and Karin in San Diego for the past week, and it’s been really nice to be back near the coast with some good friends. We spent our first full day out here learning how to windsurf in Mission Bay. Ryan and Karin are incredibly patient and effective teachers and we were quickly standing up and sailing around the bay (with a few falls and dunks along the way!).
The rest of the week has consisted of plenty of good food and leisure sports such as croquet and rock golf, a Ryan Fritzsche original. We really feel so lucky to have good friends across the country who welcome us into their house and put up with the small piles of stuff that we drag along with us!
The Perfect Day
Thursday, January 22nd, 2009It’s not just the Arizona Cardinals who seem to be enjoying a string of good luck here in the Grand Canyon State. We’ve had some incredibly good fortune as of late, and we’ve got a lot of catching up to do here on the blog. To skip ahead for a second here, we’ve landed in San Diego and have been enjoying the incredible weather and outdoor fun so much that we’ve been neglecting the posting for a bit. It’s hard to forget where we left off though–a trip to Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix.
I had read about this place in a book about one man’s search for the perfect pizza (sounds like my kind of journey). It’s only opens at 5:00 pm and we had a bunch of time to kill, so we figured we’d park nearby and walk around downtown for awhile. We had no idea what we were in for. The pizzeria is located on a small sidestreet that is mostly closed to car traffic. There’s just enough room for a few cars to pull onto Adams Street and turn into the pizzeria parking lot. And, at 4:00 pm that is exactly what we found out. There were 4 or 5 cars stopped in the road and the pizzeria lot had a chain draped across the entry. We sat there in our car for a few moments and thought about driving around the corner, parking the car, and walking around downtown for the next hour while waited for the restaurant to open. And then, we had our first bit of good luck for the evening. A fellow in the car next to us rolled down the window and said, “He’ll pull back the chain in a few minutes. Better not go anywhere.” Words of wisdom to two inexperienced Pizzeria Bianco customers.
Sure enough, in a few minutes a man walked out of the pizzeria, pulled back the chain blocking the small lot, and we pulled into a space. In the meantime, people started coming out of the woodwork and gathered out in front of the restaurant. The place wasn’t opening for another hour. We didn’t really know what was going on, but this flurry of activity seemed like a good indication that this pizza must be something special. Mimicking the others, we sat ourselves at one of the tables in front of the pizzeria, soaked up the afternoon sun, and listened to the energetic conversations around us. We weren’t the only out-of-staters. And then, good fortune struck again when some folks asked if they could sit down next to us at the table. Harry and CJ and their daughter Jackie were out to celebrate one last meal at Pizzeria Bianco before Jackie moved to Salt Lake City the next day. It seemed like we had a lot in common with Jackie’s sister Adrian who had taken a trip around the world years ago, including some time woofing in New Zealand. We had a wonderful conversation, and Harry and CJ invited us several times to stay the night at their house in Phoenix. It sounded like a great idea, and it was a real treat to have some new friends so we took them up on the offer.
At this point, it was getting close to 5:00 pm and soon everyone started lining up outside the restaurant. We found our place in line–it’s all an honor system, peppered by offers to trade one’s spot in line for hundreds of dollars–and got ready to chow down. We were seated quickly and enjoyed a fantastic meal of tomato, basil, and homemade mozzerella salad, a margerita pizza, and a Wiseguy (smoked mozzerella, fenel sausage, and carmelized onions). Wow. This was good pizza. It’s hard to make comparisons over time and thousands of miles, but this was some of the best pizza I’ve had. After a memorable dinner, we went back to Harry and CJ’s for some good conversation and stories–the perfect way to end a perfect day (We had also eaten ice cream that day at the Sugar Bowl). Harry and CJ were the most generous hosts we could imagine and we thoroughly enjoyed our time in Phoenix thanks to them. Thank you Harry and CJ! Hopefully we can return the favor someday!
Roadfood
Tuesday, January 13th, 2009When we do set out at the start of the day and have a destination in mind, one of our guides aside from the atlas has been the book Roadfood. This is a resource that anyone on a road trip should absolutely have. It’s a guide to over 700 of the best local eateries all across the country. These are places that maintain that local flavor both in their sense of place and sense of taste. At most of these places you can get a meal for under $10 and you can often pick them out at lunch time by the crowd waiting outside (the surest sign of some good eats). We’ve been able to check out 6 places so far on our travels, and haven’t been let down once. I already wrote a bit about our trip to Arthur Bryant’s in Kansas City, but we’ve also been to:
Homemade Ice Cream and Pie Kitchen–Lousville, KY
Plaza Cafe–Santa Fe, NM
The Frontier–Albuquerque, NM (twice!)
Nopalito–Las Cruces, NM
Nellie’s Cafe–Las Cruces, NM
Tacqueria Pico de Gallo–South Tucson, AZ (This is, according to the Roadfood authors, the best Mexican restaurant in the country. After two visits I can’t disagree with that, but I’m willing to put it to the test. El Farolito here we come!)
Sugar Bowl–Scottsdale, AZ (This is where Dennis the Menace would go for ice cream in the cartoon strip)
Every one of these places so far has been a local treasure.
Next up is a place that isn’t in Roadfood but I’ve read about elsewhere–Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix. If you want to check out some good descriptions of these places and more in your area, check out http://www.roadfood.com/
Deming Luna Mimbres Museum
Saturday, January 10th, 2009One of the great things that we love about this road trip is that we don’t have much of a schedule. We often don’t decide where we’re headed until we get in the car, and we’re easily steered in any direction if there’s something interesting along the way.
Three Rivers Petroglyph was one of the few places that we’ve spent multiple days at–partly because we were waiting for less windy weather, but also because it was incredibly interesting. While the petroglyphs caught our immediate attention, it was the ancient village site that really drew us in. At least 700 years ago a small group of people lived there, carved petroglyphs in the rocks, and made beautiful pottery–among other things. At first glance, there’s almost no sign of their settlement at Three Rivers, but when we turned our eyes toward the ground we could hardly walk a few paces without finding broken pieces of 700 year old pottery scattered about. Surely, the area had been picked through, dug up, and combed over years ago by folks looking for whole pieces and points, but there was something fascinating about feeling like we had discovered these things lying on the ground. Some of the broken bits were painted carefully with black stripes–some thick and some thin. Some were plain and grayish, others plain and reddish, and we even found one piece that was clearly the top of some pot or jug. It was pretty neat to see these things first hand, not behind a glass case in a museum, but right there at our feet among the sand and the stones of the desert.
When we got back to the campground that day, we started talking to the campground host about what we had found and he shared some information about the history of the area and the people who once lived there. And, he mentioned that if we wanted to see a great collection of Mimbres pottery that we should check out the Deming Museum. “It’s free, it’s got some beautiful pottery, and you could wander around in there all day.” This is the kind of tip that we love to hear–one that steers us towards a place we would never end up by simply following the road map.
Five days later we made our way into Deming and found the museum after a few wrong turns, some inaccurate directions from a gas station, and one phone call to information. The Deming Luna Mimbres Museum is set in an old armory, but the outside does no justice to how big this place feels inside. It’s a maze of exhibits covering everything from a very impressive collection of Mimbres pottery to a button hook collection to an exhibit about polio and the use of iron lungs (this includes two iron lungs–one for infants and one for adolescents complete with appropriate mannequins). We spent hours going through this museum which is apparently run entirely by volunteers–this according to a random newspaper article placed next to one exhibit. It seems to be, in some ways, a collection of other people’s collections–some with obvious historical value, and others that you swore you’ve seen at numerous garage sales or in your house when you were a kid (like the Betsy Ross and George Washington liquor bottles). Some other highlights included a cowboy hat exhibit that included hats of actual cowboys from the area over the past 50 years, thunder eggs, an old Playboy magazine in braille (some people do read it for the articles), and the first electric washer machine from the town of Deming. The geodes and rocks exhibit even includes a section of stuff that you can buy–just see the volunteer at the front desk and they’ll unlock the case for you. We managed to make it back outside without purchasing a Deming Luna Mimbres Museum sweatshirt (I’m not sure if that’s good or bad yet), and enjoyed a nice lunch of cheese and crackers and a tangelo on the museum steps in the warm sun. If you are ever traveling through this part of New Mexico make sure to stop here. And if you do, let me know. I might ask you to pick up a sweatshirt for me.
Where’s the water?
Thursday, January 8th, 2009We spent two days hanging out at Three Rivers Petroglyphs–a BLM site about 50 miles from White Sands National Monument. There was some strong wind in the forecast and we figured the last place we’d want to be is in the middle of some sand dunes, so we relaxed at Three Rivers for a couple of days. Another beautiful spot, with some pretty neat campground hosts who spend part of their year there. We settled into a pretty good morning routine. Wake up, read, coffee, breakfast of either eggs or pancakes, morning walk, sun basking…I could get used to this.
After waiting out the wind we took off for White Sands. This is an incredible place that is almost hard to describe. It’s so different from anywhere we’ve ever been, and had us thinking we were at the beach. Ahh, soon enough…
Albuquerque
Thursday, January 8th, 2009We’ve been heading mostly south the last few days towards warmer days and nights and plenty of sunshine. When we got to Albuquerque we had a few missions: 1. Eat at the Frontier Restaurant 2. Check out Petroglyphs National Monument and 3. Find the De Anza Motel.
The Frontier Restaurant is a great place to eat in Albuquerque (not an easy word to type over and over). They make some great New Mexican food here and it’s ready about 3 minutes after you order it. The place is huge and must get mobbed by the U of NM crowd during school, but it was fairly quiet while we were there. Petrogylphs National Monument is a very interesting park on the west side of town where 700 year old rock carvings can be found on the side of a mesa. And, last but not least, the De Anza Motor Lodge is the site of one of the most memorable and infamous Albers’ family vacation stops of the 1980′s.
Luckily, both the Frontier Restaurant and the De Anza are both on old Route 66 just a few minutes apart. If you check out the pictures, you’ll see that the De Anza is obviously not open for business anymore. However, it doesn’t look all that different from when I was there 20 or so years ago! There might even be less ants in the rooms these days! While it was sad to it so run down, it gave us a good laugh…and it’s probably for the best!
We also found time to walk around the old part of town before heading to Coronado State Monument to camp for the evening. They have some very interesting kiva murals at the monument that were worth the trip, but we also got a great tip from one of the folks working there. He gave us directions to some incredible hot springs up in the mountains. It was a 10 mile round trip hike through the snow to get there, but it was well worth it.



























