Archive for February, 2009

Which Way to Mount Doom?

Thursday, February 26th, 2009

Tongariro National Park 02-19-2009 1-26-34 AM

Following our stint at Waiinu we headed inland (this was very hard to do) to check out Tongariro National Park.  Tongariro was the first national park in New Zealand, boasts one of the best day hikes in the country, and is home to a number of active volcanoes, including Mount Doom!  Of course, it’s not called Mount Doom, but it’s the volcano that was used for Mount Doom in the Lord of the Rings movies.  At last, we would have a chance to climb the mountain and cast the ring into the fiery…what would a blog about New Zealand be without at least one reference to Lord Of The Rings?  Or sheep.  So, in honor of stereotypical New Zealand here’s a sheep.

Sheep 02-26-2009 1-42-19 PM

I’d love to include a picture of Mount Doom, but we never really saw it–we were foiled by a raging storm.  We got to Tongariro just in time to set up our newly acquired tarp (Ethan, you’ll be happy to know that we spent the two extra bucks to avoid the dreaded blue tarp).  We set up the tarp, pulled out the chairs, and pretty much sat there through the biggest storm of the summer.  We did manage to see a pretty neat waterfall, and watching the stream near our campsite turn into a raging river was cool too.  We spent a lot of time in the Visitor’s Center waiting out the weather which was not letting up at all.  We checked out the exhibits two or three times apiece.  We watched every minute of every video display inside that place.  If you ever want to know anything about the history of skiing in Tongariro just send us your questions.  Worried that we would soon become a part of the exhibit, we headed out into the rain and drove back to our refuge under the tarp.  The Tongariro Crossing hike would just have to wait until another time–the weather forecast wasn’t much better for the next few days.

We were in for a real treat though.  The drive from Tongariro towards Levin was full of landmarks including a giant carrot, a giant gum boot, and a memorial to a train wreck (normal size).  We spent a few days on the beaches near Levin and then headed to Celtic Organic Winery where we’ve been for the past 5 days.
Ohakune Carrot 02-20-2009 3-45-33 PM Giant Gum Boot 02-20-2009 4-36-10 PM

You might be saying to yourself, “Why do Tim and Joanie seem to only go to farms that produce alcoholic beverages?”  Well, I don’t know what to say except, why not?  Clearly the benefits are outstanding.  Celtic Organic Winery has been fantastic.  Malcolm makes some very tasty wines in the old Celtic tradition. They age outside through the seasons instead of in a cool cellar.  We’ve had some delicious plum port wine, plum wine, celtic mead, green ginger wine, green ginger sparkling wine, whiskey mac, and feijoa wine.  I better go make sure I got them all.  Our first day here we were able to put our labeling skills to use, but since then we been focusing our energies on some outside projects.  We helped build a fence, weed some gardens, and for the past two days we’ve been cleaning up the 10 pine trees that were just cut down.  There’s now a massive pile of limbs out in the field, and it’s a bummer that we won’t be around to see the fire when it’s burned.

One of the best things about being here are the shared dinners that we have with Malcolm and his wife Deb.  We just had an incredible meal thanks to Malcom’s trip out in his boat today–fresh snapper.  We, I should say I, enjoyed some mussels yesterday.  Joanie was brave enough to give them a try, but isn’t the biggest fan.  We had fresh fish the first night here as well, and several other delicious meals in between.  We’ve got a bit of work to do tomorrow morning, and then we head south to Wellington to meet up with Ron and Jill from White Cliff Organic Brewery to help out with the Wellington beer festival.

Waiinu

Thursday, February 26th, 2009

Waiinu Beach 02-17-2009 3-28-03 PM Waverly Beach 02-16-2009 4-38-53 PM

When we bought our surfboard, we also picked up a great surf guide to New Zealand.  It’s got descriptions of surf beaches in all parts of the country, complete with info on the best tides to surf, ideal wind and swell direction, and, of course, the stoke factor meter.  We’ve been thumbing through the book looking for beaches that are good for beginners, don’t have rocks, or sharks, or waste pipes draining nearby.  When we got to Waiinu Beach we found it to be pretty ideal for us–the waves were perfect for beginners, the beach was beautiful, and there was a free campground right on the beach!  Well, not really free–there was a donation box to put in whatever you thought fair.

An older Kiwi that I was talking with one day in the campground asked me, “How much would it cost to camp in a place like this back home?”  I kind of laughed at first, because there isn’t really anything like this back home at all–at least not on the east coast.  And, there’s not a chance that it would be free.  Before coming here, folks told us that Kiwi’s are some of the friendliest folks you’ll meet.  We’ve found that to be true so far.  Everywhere that we camp we seem to meet incredibly friendly people who are willing to share their company, food, drinks, books, knowledge of the area, etc.

But, friendly people aren’t the only thing that we’ve come to appreciate about New Zealand.  There have been lots of little things that seem to make a lot of sense.  Like two buttons on toilets–one for a half flush and one for a full flush.  And hose fittings are really neat here too–so easy to swap in and out.  Buying, registering, and insuring a car was far easier for us to do here than it is back home.    Another thing here that we’ve really come to appreciate are the massive chocolate bars that can be had for just a buck or two.  And, it’s pretty sweet to open up a 2 liter bottle of beer for the evening.  We might as well add Beer Festivals to the list here too.  They seem to be a pretty regular occurrence and are loads of fun.  We’ll be helping out at another one in Wellington on the 28th–stay tuned for more on that!

Best of all, we’ve found that New Zealand has the greatest playgrounds.  It seems that playgrounds here are still built with fun in mind.  Playgrounds back home are getting worse and worse–all the risk (fun) has been removed from them.  So far, the town of Levin and their Adventure Park has been the best of the best.  We spent the better part of a morning swinging around on the playground while the local kids were in school.

Levin Adventure Park 02-22-2009 2-50-38 PM Levin Adventure Park 02-22-2009 2-55-33 PM

Gone Surfing

Sunday, February 15th, 2009

Wainui Beach 02-14-2009 5-43-48 PM Opunake Beach 02-13-2009 3-39-59 PM Wainui Beach 02-15-2009 2-43-07 AM

The Car

Thursday, February 12th, 2009

Agy! 02-10-2009 9-50-05 PM

It’s long overdue that we share a bit about the third companion on our trip–Agy (pronounced Aggie).  Agy is our silver 1994 Honda Civic that we picked up in Devonport (license AGY100–nice and easy to remember).  She’s been serving us well so far and has many features that are worth sharing and that are well suited to our trip.  Agy has about 170,000 kilometers under her belt, brand new tyres, and an easy plate number to remember.  But those are just the basics.  The “boot” has a rubber floor which is perfect for wetsuits, bathing suits, muddy boots, wet raincoats, etc.  Even better, the rear two windows have “bathing suit” drying bars–perfect for those multiple swim days.  We even have a few extra rubber mats that are perfect for sitting on at our campsites.  The rear seat folds down, and in a pinch we could probably sleep in the back.  Agy has a great dashboard with plenty of space for sunglasses (which are being held in the free pair of socks we got on the flight here), maps, guidebooks, avocados, etc., and two cupholders that are the perfect size for two Cokes.

Back to those socks for a minute.  On the flight here, we got all kinds of goodies–best among them was the sleeping blindfold (I don’t know what the proper name is for those things) and the socks.  Both of these items had a mint smell to them.  When I put the socks on they had a cool feeling to them, and when I put the sleeping blindfold thingy on, it had a relaxing minty smell to it.  Maybe this is fairly common on long flights, but for folks who are used to sleeping to the smell of woodsmoke leaking from the stovepipe and are sometimes awoken by flying squirrels landing on their bed in the middle of the night, this was true luxury.
Getting back to Agy, she’s got a nice rattle from the back hatch that is very reminiscent of my family’s station wagon from when I was a kid.  It’s nice to know that old wagons in New Zealand make the same squeaking rattle.  But, at least Agy doesn’t smell like spilled roast beef juice (If you ever want someone to think that you’ve been storing a dead body in the back of your car just spill some roast beef juice in there and let it sit in the sun for a few days).  I guess that’s also the benefit of the rubber floor.

Agy! 02-10-2009 9-51-13 PM Agy! 02-10-2009 9-50-59 PM

One of the features that has already been very useful is the removable caving light.  The dome light is a three LED light that you can detach from the car.  This was especially handy when we went caving and my headlamp was running low on batteries. The car light proved very worthy while we were mucking around in the caves and helped me spot one of the cave eels that was trying to eat us as we waded through the underground cave river.  I didn’t mention this in the post about caving, but we saw several eels swimming around in these caves.  Most of the caves we went into required walking through at least ankle deep water.  Some spots were a bit deeper, and then there were some places that you couldn’t see the bottom of the water.  The guidebook said that if you went through these sections you would be rewarded, but after the cave eels sightings Joanie was not too excited to step into a bottomless river with cave eels lurking around.  I, of course, was fine, but I didn’t want to leave Joanie by herself so I pretended that I too did not want to go any further.

Best of all, she can handle a surfboard with ease–both inside and out.  We just picked up a board and it conveniently fits inside the car for days when were in town running errands.  More on the surfing adventures later,but I can sum it up in a few words here: learning, tumbling.  Check out the new pictures on Flickr!

The Brewery–Part Two

Thursday, February 12th, 2009

It’s Tuesday night, but in some ways it feels a little like a Sunday evening–that feeling of a great weekend under your belt, good times had, but the small gray cloud of tomorrow’s responsibilities hanging overhead.  However, instead of the usual Monday morning blues of having to leave the weekend behind, we’re instead a bit sad to be leaving White Cliff Organic Brewery and our wonderful hosts, the Trigg Family.  Over the past 10 days we’ve really settled in at the brewery, and have thoroughly enjoyed working with the Triggs.  It’s going to be hard for our next WWOOF experience to live up to this one!  However, if we don’t leave now we may be tempted to never leave!  We wrapped up our last day of “work” today–Joanie spent the day painting and cleaning chillers, while I wrapped up my mold removal project on the outside of the function center, helped unload the new shipment of grains, and did a bit of weedwacking.  It was a good days work rewarded by a few beers.  It’s good to know that we’ll be able to catch up with the Triggs again in Wellington at the end of the month–we’ve signed on to help out with a beer festival there at the end of February.  The timing works out perfect–we need to be in Wellington the first week of March to see Old Crow Medicine Show on their first ever New Zealand tour!  Woohoo!

Beer Festival at Okurukuru 02-06-2009 3-04-38 PM 02-06-2009 3-34-15 PM Beer Festival at Okurukuru 02-06-2009 3-04-38 PM 02-06-2009 9-39-23 PM

Speaking of beer festivals. we had an incredible time at the beer and wine festival that we worked this past weekend.  It was held at Okurukuru Winery right on the coast south of New Plymouth.  The winery is set on a series of hills that overlook a beautiful stretch of coastline.  You can see Mt. Taranaki, New Plymouth, and miles upon miles (or kilometers upon kilometers) of beautiful blue ocean.  A number of other wineries and food vendors set up booths at the festival, and there was also a nice variety of delicious food (including one of my new favorites–biltong).  And, of course, we were there selling Mike’s Ale and Lager to the thirsty crowd.

It was the perfect day for a festival–sunny and warm, the live music was good, and folks seemed pretty eager to have a cold one, or two, or three as they danced around.  So, we spent the day pouring beers, drinking beers (what better way to advertise, right?), and watching people who drank beers.  This was big fun!  We saw, among other things, several very sunburned people, an unsunburned but very bare ass of a man whose mates pulled his pants down, and a few people who must have been very tired because they fell asleep lying halfway into the bushes.  What an interesting experience being on the other side of things for a change!  There was also a “fashion” show which consisted of folks from the crowd strutting their stuff on stage–I’m still not sure if this is something they signed up to do, or something their friends signed them up for.  Either way it was entertaining.

As good as all of the beer drinking and pouring was, our highlight of the festival had to be the “extreme” helicopter ride that we took.  For a small fee, we went for a 15-20 minute ride along the coast, over the hills and New Plymouth, and around the festival site.  This was not the average helicopter ride though.  We took off in a flash and went straight up and then turned hard and dove toward the sea.  The pilot did what was probably the closest thing you can do to a flip in a helicopter, and it felt sort of like being on a roller coaster.  Joanie lucked out and got to sit in the front seat next to the pilot.  She had a headset on, which came in handy when the pilot pointed out the naked guy sunbathing, who he then proceeded to buzz past closely.  Once we were back on the ground we went back to the beer booth, but watched many more flights zip overhead.  The festival seemed to be a big success–we sold all the beer we brought with us.  Hopefully we provided some help and didn’t drink all the profits.  We can’t wait to see what the Wellington festival brings!

Beer Festival at Okurukuru 02-06-2009 3-04-38 PM 02-06-2009 6-27-12 PM Beer Festival at Okurukuru 02-06-2009 3-04-38 PM 02-06-2009 6-27-27 PM

The Brewery

Wednesday, February 4th, 2009

White Cliffs Organic Brewery 02-01-2009 1-45-32 AM

Ahhh, there’s nothing like beer.  Even better, there’s nothing like good, organic beer.  Picture this:  A small organic brewery set on the west coast of New Zealand above the White Cliffs.  Two beers, ale and lager, masterfully brewed with the finest ingredients–barley, hops, yeast, and rainwater.  That’s right, four ingredients.  Nothing else.  Outside of the brewery is an avocado orchard full of fruits, and when things are quiet, the sound of the waves crashing on the cliffs.  At night, a brilliant starry sky with Orion and the Southern Cross shining bright illuminates the path to a small cottage among the avocados.  Can it get any better than this?

For the past four days we’ve been here at White Cliff Brewery enjoying our first week of WWOOFing.  The brewery was easy to find–it’s just off the main road that takes you down the west coast and a giant beer bottle greets you from the road–there’s no missing it.  We arrived here on Sunday and have spent the last four days working (there must be a better term for this) and having fun.  The brewery is a true family business–Mike, Rene, Ron, Jill, Dylan, and Christie run the brewery and adjacent White Cliffs Estate function center.  Our hosts are an incredibly generous family and it’s a real pleasure to get to share their company, work alongside them, and help out however we can.

Helping out has come in the form of weeding the grounds, transplanting comfrey, cutting firewood, tasting beer, bottling, and our favorite task–labeling!  Ever since we visited Maker’s Mark, Joanie has wanted to try her hand at labeling bottles.  Now she is a real pro at the job and hopefully Smuttynose will take notice!  The brewery just underwent a rebranding and the labels are just one of many improvements that have been made in the past two years.  Check out the brewery website here for a look at the new brand.  You might even want to order a shirt once they update the online shop–and at the same time see my first “modeling” gig.  I think I’ve found my true calling in life–beer shirt model.  There must be someone out there willing to pay me for that!

We work about 4 hours each day and then join everyone for a delicious lunch usually consisting of lots of fresh food–tomatoes, avocados, lettuce, plums, breads, cheeses, an African style beef jerky, etc.  There’s a bunch of chickens on the property here too, so we’ve got our pick of fresh eggs every day.  After lunch we’re usually finished with work, grab a pitcher of beer and are on our own for the rest of the day.

White Cliffs Beach Walk 02-02-2009 2-08-15 AM

We’ve been taking advantage of that time off to walk along the beach below White Cliffs (only accessible at low tide), head into New Plymouth to see the Festival of Lights and listen to live music, or catch up on skype calls, reading, or finding the next WWOOF farm.  There’s a beer and wine festival on Saturday that we’ll be helping with and the next few days will likely be busy with preperations for the festival.  We’ll be sure to post some pictures–it’s being held at a winery a bit south of here with an absoultely incredible view of the ocean.

Week One–The Other Side Of The World

Tuesday, February 3rd, 2009

We’ve been here in New Zealand for one week now, and the blog has a lot of catching up to do.  Most of the first week has been jammed full of trips, treks and adventure, and with just enough time for our sarongs to dry out in between swims.  It’ll be hard to go into all the details of what we’ve done so far without writing a novel, so I’ll try to make it a quick recap.  On our first full day in Auckland we found a car–a great 1994 Honda Civic (there’ll be a separate post all about the features of the car and how perfect it is for our trip!).  We found it online for sale at a small dealership in Devonport–just a short ferry ride across from Auckland.  After a somewhat nervous test drive (stay on the left, stay on the left), we were convinced this was what we were looking for.  Having the car taken care of we were free to start exploring the North Island and getting on with the trip.

Our first stop was a bit north of Auckland at Maharungi Regional Park.  After showing us our campsite, the camphost then showed us the showers–a beautiful teal blue bay.  It didn’t take too much convincing to get us to “shower”.  Morning swims, afternoon swims, evening swims–no matter what time of day the water feels great!  We ended up spending two nights at Maharungi–one at Sullivan’s Bay and one at a backcountry site on Mita Bay.  The hike from Mita Bay gave us our first taste of New Zealand ferns which are nothing like ferns back home–they’re more like trees.  It’s pretty exciting to have an entirely new set of plants, birds, animals, etc. to experience and learn.

Mita Bay Backcountry Camp, Mahurangi Regional Park 01-28-2009 1-13-48 AM

After Maharungi we continued north up the east coast to Waipu.  In full New Zealand adventure spirit we took on what I call the Waipu hat trick–three stops in one day.  First we took a short hike out to Piroa Falls–a destination that one of our guidebooks considered “nothing special as afar as the scenery goes”.  It was a beautiful water fall with several deep swimming holes right at the base.  Check out the pictures and see if they seem sub par–if our guidebook is right, then I guess we’re really in for a treat at some other falls.  After the falls we took off for Waipu Caves.  These caves (and others in NZ) are open for exploration–no user fees, no bars closing them off, no guides to hire.  The caves are well known for the glow worms that cover the cave ceiling like a small milky way.  After trudging through the muddy cave floor and wading through a shallow underground stream we turned off the headlamps and were treated to this incredible sight.  The picture does no justice to what it actually looked like.  Finally, after the cave trip, we headed for our final destination of the day–Uretiti Beach.  There’s a DOC campground there that was full of folks getting in their last full weekend of the summer (school starts back up here on 2/2/09 -folks here put the month second and the day first, but today this works for all of us!).  We picked out our spot and made a quick beeline for the beach–a long stretch of white sand and blue water.  We took the obligatory swim and then settled in for a good night’s rest.

Piroa Falls 01-28-2009 5-45-17 PM

The water is so warm here that a 7:45 am swim on a cloudy day was perfectly comfortable.  What a way to start the day!  We picked up where we left off and had another busy day planned–Whangarei Falls, A.H. Reed Kauri Park, and Abbey Caves.  Since then we’ve made it back down the west coast and have landed at our first WWOOF stop–White Cliff Brewery!  More on that later–it’s great!

Week one has been phenomenal, and we know that we’re just getting started.  We’re enjoying every minute of every day and having an absolute blast.  At the same time, we miss all of our friends and family back home and love getting the skype messages and emails–so keep them coming!