Archive for the ‘New Zealand North Island’ Category

Homeward Bound

Tuesday, June 16th, 2009

Tired of seeing pictures of Tim wearing that green shirt?  Think it’s time that Joanie gives up that black hooded sweatshirt?  You are in luck!  We leave NZ tomorrow and will be reunited with the rest of our clothes!

WhiteCliffs Organic Brewery 06-15-2009 1-37-23 AM

Goodbye NZ coast 06-15-2009 2-50-46 PM

Sadly, we left the brewery on Tuesday morning after enjoying our last few organic beers on Monday night.  We have seen so many incredible places here in New Zealand and have met so many wonderful people along the way, but thanks to the Trigg family the brewery will always be the most memorable part of our trip to New Zealand.  Unfortunately we don’t have much time here on the internet before we go, so our last thoughts about New Zealand will have to wait until another time.  The smog and traffic of LA should give us plenty of time and perspective to do that!

Instead, here are some quick facts and figures about the past 5 months in Kiwi land!

A Bad Day Camping…New Zealand By The Numbers

Number of kilometers driven: 12,272

Number of songs listened to on the car radio during those 12,272 kilometers: 0

Number of times Joanie drove: 2

Number of times Tim pulled out onto the wrong side of the road: 2

Days spent on the North Island: 80

Days spent on the South Island: 54

Days spent WWOOFing: 51

Extreme helicopter rides taken: 1

Number of bungy jumps, zorb rides, and blackwater rafting trips taken: 0

Number of “Yes We Did” Obama stickers seen on NZ cars: 1

Number of photos taken: 1098

Meals eaten at Sweet Mother’s Kitchen in Wellington: 5

Number of live penguins seen: 2

Number of dead penguins seen: 1

Unsuccessful attempts made to climb Mt. Doom: 4

The Brewery–Take Two

Saturday, June 13th, 2009

Tiff and John have once again answered correctly!  Too bad US Customs wouldn’t let us send you a prize from here.  Losers.  We are back at White Cliffs Organic Brewery with the Trigg family and there could not be a better place to close out our time here in New Zealand.  It’s amazing how much is happening at the brewery and how much has changed since we were here almost 5 months ago.  The brewery is expanding, production has increased, a sweet new keg system is in place, and things are as busy as ever.  Of course, what hasn’t changed here are the delicious Mike’s Ale and Lager that we readily enjoy after a hard days work.  If I were a proper beer connoisseur and critic with an array of adjectives I could go on and on about these two brews (and the new whiskey porter that I wish I could fill my luggage with).  But, instead I’ll just say that the goodness of this beer can only be surpassed by that of the people making it.  With the recent spat of rainy days it’s been nice to have a roof over our heads, but it’s been even better to be enjoying the company of Jill, Ron, Dylan, Christie, Mike, and Rene.  This is by far the closest thing to home that we have in New Zealand.  We love the brewery!

White Cliff Organic Brewery 06-12-2009 11-53-07 PM

We jumped back into things quickly and have been busy labeling beers, planting shrubs, cutting trees, moving rocks, packing cases and pitching in wherever we can.  We’ve actually been here for 10 days already which is almost as hard to believe as the fact that we have less than a week left in New Zealand. Four and a half days to be exact.  It’s a little bit crazy to think about that.  We’ve gotten used to life here in the most peaceful place on earth.  If we could just convince our family and friends to come we wouldn’t need to leave!  That said, we are also feeling incredibly excited about returning home to see everyone and figuring out where our path across the country will take us.  It’s a good thing we extended our stay in NZ because we’ve seen so many amazing things in the past couple of weeks.  There were the kiwi and octopus sightings, the giant kauris, the Three Sisters area, but we just recently had a true NZ experience in sighting our first wild weta.  Take a look at this thing!

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We’ve also been able to watch one of the most talented digger drivers we’ve ever seen.  If that doesn’t sound exciting, check out this picture of him getting the digger off the truck sans ramps.

White Cliff Organic Brewery 06-11-2009 3-44-16 PM

In a few days we’ll be off to Auckland to sell our car and get ready to fly to California.  We’ve got a lot to do to get ready to leave.  We’ve acquired some things along the way that we’d like to bring home and we’ve worn through some things that aren’t worth bringing back.  We need to sort through it all but haven’t found the motivation to actually do it.  If you don’t hear from us in another week or so you probably know where to find us!

Bonus Time

Saturday, June 6th, 2009

It’s hard to believe that it’s almost been two weeks since the last post.  We’ve been enjoying our “bonus time” here in New Zealand–we pushed our flight back about a month–and have seen some really cool things and places that we would have missed.  It’s always hard to try and capture it all a week or two later, but here’s a quick recap–check our Flickr page in the next few days as well for lots of photo updates.  After leaving the oil refinery and our phony Texas accents behind (they weren’t impressed), we continued north in search of sun and fun.  We got a little bit of the former and lots of the latter.  The weather has certainly changed here.  It’s June, which despite our refusal to accept it, means the onset of winter in New Zealand.  Of course, it’s not like winter back home, but the nights are getting cold and if it’s raining during the day it’s not exactly pleasant.  But, here on the North Island you can still get some beautiful, fine days–warm enough for a surf or snorkel session.  We had a couple of awesome days out on the Karikari Peninsula near the top of the North Island.  At Matai Bay we found not one, but two octopi.  We spent hours in the tide pools with our octopus stick, watching it grab on or push it away, feeding it other creatures, seeing if it would swim around if we coaxed it out of its hiding spot–basically all of the things that we would typically be telling the groups of kids we used to take on these kinds of excursions not to do.

Matai Bay Octopus 05-28-2009 12-04-01 AM

We also had a chance to stop at the “World Famous” Mangonui Fish Shop for some delicious fish and chips.  It’s funny how things work out sometimes.  Ever since writing that post about the fork, we can’t seem to get away from them.  Joanie landed a few forks at the fish shop amd then we went snorkeling a few days later and one of the first things we saw was a fork in some seaweed.  Spaghetti has been much more enjoyable lately.

Mangonui Fish Shop 05-26-2009 8-43-33 PM

Another huge highlight was catching sight of our first wild kiwi (the bird, not the mulleted rugby type–seen plenty of those).  At Trounson Forest Park we strapped on our headlamps and took a night walk in search of the elusive kiwi and were treated to a fleeting glimpse of a dark blob scratching through the forest floor.  You can see the picture here.

Kiwi sighting!, Trounson Kauri Park 05-29-2009 1-44-20 AM

We also found another massive eel on the same walk–they spend around 70-80 years in freshwater before returning to the sea to mate and die!  Finally, we topped off the wildlife mania with a visit to some ancient kauri trees.  Wow!

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As exciting as all of that was, I think the highlight for us may have been a visit to the Kauri Museum on the west coast.  We felt as if we had landed in the Deming, New Mexico of New Zealand.  Deming, of course, was the sight of the coolest museum of our New Hampshire to California road trip, and the Kauri Museum was similar in many ways.  When you’re inside the museum you can’t help but wonder where the heck am I?  From the outside you just have no idea how big the place is.  And, like Deming the museum is lucky to have a dedicated staff of volunteers and is filled with tons of artifacts from the local region.  The Kauri Museum, however, does have a theme to it–kauri trees and logging–though there is also plenty of other stuff thrown in (no braille editions of Playboy however).  The best part is that a group of older guys who like to tinker with machinery have fixed up old sawmills, milking sheds, etc. so you can see these things actually working.  And all of the mannequins running these machines look just like the guys who fixed them up.  The attention to detail was incredible.  The dentist’s office patient had blood in all the right places–mouth, shirt collar, vest, gauze on the table–there were even mud smears from his gumboots on the chair’s footstool.  You won’t see that in the Smithsonian.

The Kauri Museum 05-29-2009 5-01-23 PM

Where to next?  With just a couple of weeks left we’ve been feeling a desire to get out of the cold, under a roof, and back to our favorite place in New Zealand.  Any guesses where that might be?

Oil!

Tuesday, May 26th, 2009

Hey folks!  Good to be back here on “A Bad Day Camping…”, and I wanted to let you all know that we’ve moved on from our stint at the mines to bigger and better things.  We recently toured the Marsden Oil Refinery and are fully equipped and ready to open our own oil refinery in New Hampshire when we return home.  We viewed a half hour long sound and light show and viewed the 1 million dollar scale model of the refinery.  We even picked up a few handouts, spun around in the executive’s chair a few times, and learned how to find oil.  I’d say we’re ready for business.  And, did you know that an endangered bird not only nests just outside the refinery but also within its fences?  Guess you can have one’s cake and eat it too.

Marsden Oil Refinery 05-24-2009 6-53-24 PM

Kidding aside, it was actually an interesting place.  The model itself is a piece of work worth seeing–it’s huge.  I couldn’t help but think that they should put some trains in there to liven things up a bit.  Or maybe some endangered birds behind the fences.  Unfortunately, this industry tour wasn’t offering any free samples.

Marsden Oil Refinery 05-24-2009 7-12-28 PM

In Defense of the Fork

Tuesday, May 26th, 2009

It doesn’t take long for folks to realize that we’re from the USA.  How do people know we’re Americans?  It may be the accents, the inflections, the clothes, the waterboarding kit we carry around in case someone isn’t willing to tell us about the local fish and chip shop.  Seriously, who let Dick Cheney out of his lair?  Just when we were starting to gain back some respect and goodwill in the world this creep has to resurface?    Surprisingly, the most obvious “American thing” about us is none of the above–at least for those we share meals with.  It’s our fork usage.

We use our forks for everything.  Cut, mash, pile, scoop–you name it, we do it with our forks.  Inevitably, when we sit down to share a meal with someone they eventually can’t help but ask if we ever use a knife.  And, we’re usually not the first Americans they’ve called out on this.  Here in British influenced New Zealand people deftly use knife and fork for eating.  There are times that we feel a bit barbaric because of this.  And, when we do attempt to use knife and fork in the “proper” way it feels a bit more than awkward.  But, I am offering no apologies.   I’m here to defend the fork!  If this is the real reason why the founding fathers declared independence then good for them!  In my book there are two things that knives are really needed for–steak and butter.  For everything else a fork will do just fine!  If one tool will do the job then why bother with others?  And really, is it necessary to use a knife to arrange mashed potatoes?  Plus, if you’ve got both hands occupied with utensils, how are you supposed to reach across the table to grab another slice of bread and stuff it into your mouth?

Of course, the only times we have used forks are when we’re at someone’s house or a restaurant.  Since November we’ve been travelling with only spoons and haven’t bothered to pick up a fork along the way.  If only the Kiwis could see us camping–what would they think?

The Spoon 05-26-2009 12-42-26 AM

The Coro

Tuesday, May 19th, 2009

Just when we were starting to get a bit worried that the weather was going to be much cooler and rainier than we anticipated at this time of year we got to the Coromandel Peninsula.  Ahh, there’s just nothing like some warmth and sunshine to turn things around.  The Coromandel is a spectacular place and we had one of the best and busiest beach days we’ve had in a long time yesterday.

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We started off at the much written about Hotwater Beach.  At Hotwater, hot springs seep right out of the sand and folks flock to the beach with whatever digging instrument they can find to fashion themselves a beachside hot tub (frisbee and plate did the trick) .  It’s definitely the kind of thing that is worth doing for the novelty (how can a hand dug hot tub on the beach be bad?), but it’s also kind of a comical thing.  We got there early in the morning as low tide was coming on, and there were only a few people there at first.  After an hour or so we were in the middle of a communal hot tub and we gladly passed on our work to the pool pariahs waiting nearby.  There it was, we did Hotwater Beach.  It was exactly how it was described to us a by a local guy we ran into at New Chums–”A bunch of people crowded into a small space laying in the sand.”  A mojito would have topped things off really well–even if it was at 8:00 am–a little practice for PI!

Next up was the much more exciting and jaw dropping Cathedral Cove.  The Coromandel in general has some amazing coastline and this is one of the gems along the way.  Things get really crowded here in the summer and we’re glad to be here at this time of the year when the crowds have subsisded and you can get a few beaches all to yourself.  We’re totally spoiled and we know it!  You’ll have to take a look at the pics to get an idea of what Cathedral is like–beautiful white sand and cliffs, blue water, sunny skies, and it’s a 30 minute walk to get there.  No perfume bus tours on this beach!  To top it all off, just down the shoreline at Gemstone Bay we checked out a snorkeling trail.  Hopefully we’ve got more days like this on the way.

Cathedral Cove 05-18-2009 5-14-08 PM

In the meantime, we are constructing a long list of things that we just can’t wait to do when we get back home.  We miss everyone a ton and can’t wait for the good times in the good old USA.  Less than a month until we arrive in California!

Thursday, May 14th, 2009

Karangahake Gorge 05-14-2009 6-38-47 PM

Money running low.  Provisions scarce.  Will work for food.

The Hut

Thursday, May 14th, 2009

The Hut 05-11-2009 3-56-00 AM The Hut 05-11-2009 4-44-07 PM

Our next adventure came pretty quickly.  Biddy and Colin lent our services to their neighbor Bridget down the road in exchange for a night at The Hut.  The Hut is exactly what it sounds like–a small hut that Bridget built and rents out to backpackers, travelers, and whoever else wants to spend the night in an amazing spot overlooking the mountains and hills of the Mt. Bruce area.  What a spot!  A short but steep hike brings you up to The Hut and I imagine that if you have any troubles you feel like you leave them all behind when you get there.  It’s a beautifully constructed place with everything you need–wood stove, outdoor bath, comfy bed, coffee, bottle of wine, steak, etc.  Oh wait, we brought the wine and steak, but this place is so great it feels as if the wine and steak came with it!  We had to mention The Hut here because it’s such an awesome place and anyone passing through the area should check it out.  And, we really enjoyed the short bit of time that we spent working with Bridget.  And the venison sausage was great!  Thanks Bridget!

The Hut 05-11-2009 3-13-20 AM

Cwmglyn Farm

Thursday, May 14th, 2009

cwmglyn farm 05-08-2009 3-16-16 PM

One of the things that we wanted to do during our trip to New Zealand was learn how to make cheese.  We couldn’t have picked a better place than Cwmglyn Farm under the care of Biddy and Colin Fraser-Davies.  Simply put, this is cheesemaking at its finest.  Each wheel of cheese is made from one cow and a cheese connoisseur is sure to have their favorite cow.  Molly and Emily, the two winter milking cows, are treated to Huggie wipes of their udders, and a snack of molases while Biddy and Colin tended to the milking each morning.  The care that they took for their cows was evident in the quality of milk, cheese, and butter that Biddy produced.  As Biddy assured us, healthy well cared for brown cows will produce delicious cheeses and she is right.  We consumed more delicious dairy in the last week than we have in the last 4 months!  On the morning that we helped with cheese making we were very excited to learn that as Biddy would say “the cheese almost makes itself”.  Needless to say with the ease of the process now evident, (although I’m sure Biddy’s skill and experience made this process seem easier than we will find it!) we are excited to try this out when we have a home and kitchen- hmmm?.   For the details on cheese making Biddy and Colin’s website is a great place to start complete with step by step directions.

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Another exciting part of Cwmglyn Farm is the model railway that Colin has created.  We thought we had an idea of what playing with trains was all about when Jackson was in his train phase a few years ago, but this takes it to a whole new level!  Colin has created and assembled one of the largest model train layouts in New Zealand–you’ve got to see the pictures to really understand what that means, and even then the pictures don’t capture it all.  The sprawling tracks and surrounding towns of the layout take up a 16 meter by 10 meter shed–built specifically to house the railway.  Once a month, Colin and 5 or 6 of his friends actually run the trains on a timetable and we were lucky enough to witness the railway in action.

In addition to learning a bit about the cheese making process and experiencing the model railway, we were happy to have the company of such great people.  We need to say a huge thank you to Biddy and Colin for welcoming us, teaching us, bearing with us when the quiche we made for dinner was not done until 7pm, and giving us a cozy little space to stay in complete with a woodstove and my absolute new favorite thing, an electric blanket.  If you’ve never owned an electric blanket it should certainly be the first item on your birthday or Christmas list.  Sadly, we left the electric blanket and farm behind in search of more adventures.

Eketahuna rugby game 05-08-2009 8-40-02 PM

Castlepoint

Thursday, May 14th, 2009

Castlepoint 05-01-2009 4-22-43 PM

The list of our favorite places in NZ is long, but one of the best days we’ve had here has to be the one we spent exploring Castlepoint.  Castlepoint is a bit out of the way from most everywhere else but is well worth the trip.  In a small area you get a little bit of everything from steep climbs, bashing waves, a picturesque lighthouse, a scary sea cave, cliffs, and stinky seals.  It’s amazing how many places there are to explore in what is a pretty small area.  Everything about the scenery here is dramatic, and we spent enough time to enjoy it at both high and low tides.

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We arrived at high tide and walked up the trail to the lighthouse and then out and around on the reef rocks.  The waves crashing along the reef cliff were incredible and we often found ourselves dodging the sea spray.  Unlike Pancake Rocks on the South Island, you can get close to the edge here and really experience it!  We then made our way south along the reef and then up Castlepoint Rock which dramatically drops straight down to the ocean below.  However, the pinnacle of our experience at Castlepoint has to be the sea cave which passes below the lighthouse.

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The sea cave is only accessible at low tide, and the trip out to it felt like some Greek Myth filled with challenges and tests along the way.  First we had to navigate the reef rocks, waves (we didn’t really wait for low tide) and the slippery clay along the shore.  Then, just when we thought we were almost to the cave entrance, we found seven seals guarding the path in.  They did not want to move, and we didn’t want to move them.  After several attempts to get them to step aside, we decided to just climb the rocks above them and see if that would work.  Luckily, after gaining the upper ground they decided to move on which was especially fortunate because if we had to smell them for one more second we would have gone the way of Aegeus.  After climbing up and over the seven seals we finally found the cave entrance.  Stepping into the black hole we were blasted by a mighty wind (not from the seals or whoever was in front at the time).  This cave has some lungs!  If you aren’t careful you could get knocked over walking into the cave.  Once inside, we realized that you can see the other cave opening on the ocean side of the reef.  And you can also see the massive waves come bashing through and sometimes closing off the opening.  And best of all, the sound of the waves is so loud that we were convinced we would be swept away or thrashed on the rocks–fodder for the giant octopus that legend says lives inside the cave.  Inside, there are tons of little pools, eyes that look up at you from below, and stalactites hanging from above.  We’ve never seen or experienced anything like it.  Luckily, we survived it all, made it out past the seala again and lived to tell the tale.  However, we did see a signpost for all of the “Lost Soles” that we can only imagine perished in the cave and fattened up that giant octopus inside.

castlepoint 05-01-2009 11-06-53 PM